When pushing the start the button we hear the electricity go and a light buzz sound, but the dryer will not st?
We have a Maytag MDG6000aww and when we push the button it buzzed but wouldnt turn. Now it wont even buzz. What could be wrong with it. There is a burnt smell also. Did the motor die?
James Conley answers:
Without looking it up, if I recall correctly the MDG is a gas dryer. So there’s not a huge amount of power going into this thing.
Here’s a place I rely on for parts : http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46621
That’s the page for your specific model. Looking at the parts diagrams may help you walk through troubleshooting.
Possibilities: the pushbutton itself is dead.
The pushbutton activates a temporary circuit built into the motor. Once up to speed, the motor’s centrifugal switch keeps things running until the motor itself has its power interrupted by a timer or the door switch. The temp circuit might be dead (probably not repairable).
The door switch might be dead.
The timer might be dead.
Belt might be broken. Probably not, if it was you’d hear the hmm-click as the motor came to speed, and the fan would be running and the heat would probably come on.
If you’re handy with electrical appliances there’s a few things you could do. You could jumper the door switch leads together, hold the start switch while turning the drum, hopefully the belt can backdrive the motor. If you get close to start speed and suddenly the motor catches and runs, then it’s definitely not the timer. Possibly the door switch, pushbutton, or start winding.
You can check the door switch and push button simply by testing for resistance when they’re pushed. It should drop to about zero.
If those items come back okay, new motor time:
If you’re going to crack it open, might as well also:
replace rear drum bearing rollers: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4008534
front drum bearing slides: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4037304
The whole bill for all these parts is a couple hundred bucks, BUT: that’s a heckuva lot cheaper than a new dryer. I’ve been using the same machine for over ten years now and it developed a squeak. Reading up, I determined it could be one of three things. Being thorough, I replaced all of them.
That was two years ago. It hums like new, good for another ten years easy. Be careful, don’t do anything dumb like work on a machine that’s still plugged in, but don’t think you can’t do it, either. If nothing else, you could purchase the parts and hire an appliance repair guy (an independent) to come install them, and dodge his markup.
Dryer has hard time starting,wont start unless I assist by manually spinning drum?
I have a Maytag Dryer about 8 years old. When you push the start button it buzzes but has a real hard time getting going sometimes popping the internal breaker. I have to remove all the clothes and bypass the door button hold the start button and manually spin the drum. Once it is going no problem. What needs to be replaced? Try throwing clothes into an already spiining dryer, wife laughs and laughs.
James Conley answers:
The START Circuit is failing. This is NOT Hard to fix. (1) UNPLUG the Dryer. (2) Remove the 2 screws under the bottom panel on the front of the dryer. (3) The Motor will be visible, with a Belt passing over the shaft and a “Tensioner” — Carefully remove the belt, and Pay Attention how the Tensioner sits in the slot, as you will need to re-install it the same way. (4) On the Motor is a small block (about 2″ x 3″ x 1″ Thick) which contains “Contacts” — There is a “Fork” that moves these contacts from one position to another depending on the motor speed (A “Governor” circuit).
What is happening is….(A) The Contacts are burned badly, and the “start” circuit of the motor is unable to connect (due to the bad contacts). Usually, they are making contact, which turns on an “extra” circuit on the motor to get it going. Once going at a certain speed, the “Fork” of the Governor switch causes the contacts to immediately switch into “Run” Mode. Obviously, since the motor runs fine for you, it is probably just fine — You need to Fix (unlikely) or REPLACE the little box of Contacts. Write down the wire connections, and Be Careful to Observe Colors, etc — If you mess it up on reassembly, it will cause a fire, or could simply pop the breaker. The Little box of contacts can be found in a “Service Manual” online (to get the part number) and can be obtained at most Appliance Parts stores….or ordered by phone or online — Cost is about $15. The only other alternatives are……Replace the entire Motor Assembly ($90), or call an appliance repair man to do the job ($45 per hour + Parts). Good Luck! I’ve been fixing them for years — It’s NOT that Hard!
are there any reliable appliance companies out there anymore?
Whirlpool,Maytag & Frigidaire have all let me down in just the last 4 1/2 years. None of their warranties are worth the paper they’re printed on.
James Conley answers:
I have had good experience with Sears Kenmore stuff.
My local store has been pretty good to me. If I need service beyond the warranty, I don’t use Sears service because their rates are too high. I use a local repair guy if I need work done.
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